Tilcara to Calilegua 63 km Trek – Ruta completa, refugios y paisajes
Tilcara to Calilegua - 63 km Trek
Located deep in northwest Argentina, this impressive trail begins in the picturesque town of Tilcara, nestled in the midst of the arid Puna landscape. The hike will lead us through environments so varied they seem straight out of a science fiction movie, culminating in San Francisco, a town set within the Yungas, an impressive jungle territory near Calilegua National Park.
This trek is highly challenging due to the distance, altitude, and the isolation characteristic of the area.
|
| Trail Tilcara - Calilegua |
Tilcara
Tilcara is a small town that has been inhabited by indigenous settlements since pre‑Inca times. Very close to the town, you can find the ruins of the "Pucará de Tilcara," which functioned as a fortress and a strategic observation point.
Today, Tilcara is a town where its people have leveraged the characteristics of their culture to develop an extraordinary tourism industry. It offers a wide range of restaurants with traditional food, folk music festivals, markets, regional craft fairs, guided tours, and a variety of accommodation options.
|
| Tilcara City |
Day 1°
The day begins early in Tilcara. We take a taxi along a gravel road to reach Casa Colorada Hotel, situated at 3150 meters above sea level. Here, we start our uphill trek through the stark desert terrain typical of the Puna. Along the way, we pass by ancient hamlets and rural enclosures that local populations have used for centuries for livestock rearing and agriculture. Some of these are in ruins, while others are still in use today.
The highest point of the day is at 4200 meters above sea level, so prior acclimatization and good physical conditioning are recommended. This point is known as Abra de Campo Laguna, where we begin a gradual descent along the mountainside, surrounded by breathtaking landscapes.
The hike concludes at El Coquena Mountain Shelter, where camping or bed accommodations (with prior reservation) are available. Services here include a snack in the afternoon, dinner, and breakfast the following day.
|
| Trail - Day 1° |
|
| "El Coquena" Mountain Shelter |
Day 2°
On the second day, we can start a bit later, but it's important not to be too complacent with the schedule because you might feel quite tired and your walking pace could be slower.
We will continue following the main trail along the mountainside. This trail is part of the “Qhapaq Ñan”, the largest network of roads in the Inca Empire, stretching from the Colombian Andes to the central mountain range of Argentina, passing through Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, and Chile.
As we walk, you can notably appreciate the excellence in road engineering developed by Andean peoples long before European colonization. To this day, remnants of the construction, paving, and drainage system of the ancient road can still be observed.
This network of roads served the crucial function of keeping every corner of the Inca Empire interconnected with a precise messaging system and facilitated trade between different regions.
Today, local inhabitants use the road to transport provisions and livestock to various towns along its path. Trekking and tourism are relatively new activities on this trail, as its development as such began less than 30 years ago.
|
| Trail - Day 2° |
The hike ends in a small town called Molulo, nestled in the bottom of a wide canyon at about 3000 meters above sea level. Here, we will notice how the landscape, once so desert‑like, begins to change dramatically. Medium‑height trees such as alisos and other semi‑tropical plants now become part of the scenery. In Molulo, we can stay at the "Mi Esperanza" shelter, which provides the same services as the "El Coquena" shelter.
Molulo is very remote from larger populations and can only be accessed by horse or on foot. However, it has a rural public school and a medical assistance room where children and residents of the region can receive primary education and medical care. This indicates that the social and cultural development of this region thrives despite the isolation.
|
| Molulo School |
Day 3°
On this day, we need to start walking very early, as it is the longest and most challenging day. The majority of the route is downhill, so your knees might feel the strain. It's also important to pay close attention to the trails, as it is easy to get lost if you're not careful.
The trail extends south and gradually turns east in the first stage. As we descend, the temperature and humidity increase, and the alder forests provide the perfect environment for other plants, insects, and animals that inhabit this area. Here, the dreaded mosquitoes also start to appear, and caution is necessary because in recent years, dengue fever has spread massively throughout Latin America.
As we approach the town of San Lucas, the landscape changes drastically once again. The entire environment here has jungle‑like characteristics; new species of plants and trees appear, the sound of birds is captivating, and if we're lucky, we may observe or hear groups of howler monkeys native to this region.
|
|
Views - Day 3° |
In San Lucas, there are several lodging options since it is significantly larger than the previous towns. I recommend the "Irene" shelter; the attention and services here are excellent. You can camp or sleep in a bed, and they also have a store where you can buy various products (wine, beer, shampoo, soap, biscuits, etc.).
|
| "Irene" Mountain Shelter |
|
| San Lucas View |
Day 4°
The fourth day is, for me, one of the most beautiful. We begin by walking the trail from San Lucas, always heading east. As soon as we leave the town behind, we enter the Yungas jungle more and more. The trees begin to reach great heights, and many species of birds and animals that were impossible to spot in previous days can be found here: toucans, woodpeckers, cliff parrots, hummingbirds, and more.
For most of this stage, we will walk within the San Lucas River gorge, where, over millennia, fluvial erosion has formed a massive red sandstone canyon that contrasts with the green plants and the spectacular colors of the flowers. Along the trail, we will find numerous clean, drinkable water springs cascading from the tops of enormous sandstone walls over 30 meters high. The heat and humidity here can be very exhausting, but the scenery makes it worthwhile.
|
| Views - Day 4° |
|
| Views - Day 4° |
The path continues downhill until we reach the banks of the Valle Grande River. Here, we can take a dip after such a journey, but caution is necessary because the current is extremely strong, and the river can swell due to rain.
The final stretch is an extreme climb of 1.5 kilometers with a 350‑meter elevation gain. It’s important to take it easy because the body is already tired, and injuries often occur when we rush to finish the trek.
The trail ends at Provincial Route No. 83, where we must take a transfer to the town of San Francisco to spend the night and celebrate the end of this incredible adventure.
|
| Views - Day 4° |
|
| Valle Grande River |
.png)
